Thursday, February 7, 2008

The Omnivore's Dilemma

Know where your food comes from. Trust culture.

I began reading this book because it is on the list of must reads for aspiring food geeks. Throughout the first half of the book, sections that go into fascinating detail about the origins of many common foods in the American system, Michael Pollan neglects to inform the reader that he has a concrete solution to this Dilemma to which the title refers. During the second half, he lets us in on the secret. Food is nutritional and sustaining, but even more so food is spiritual and cultural. It is in our understanding of, connection to, and appreciation of the food chain that we can truly experience the full pleasure of eating. And, it is through our identification with culture, and the community interaction that should follow the act of eating, that we can learn to eat in ways that sustain us and our environment.

While not a main focus of this book, Michael Pollan has spoken critically of "nutritionism." This is how he identifies the current trend of focusing on food and health by analyzing individual nutrients instead of viewing foods and diet in a more holistic manner. After realizing how much he believes food provides humans with a physical and spiritual connection to the rest of the world, this criticism seems very justified. Focusing on the effect Omega 3's have on a person's health and wellbeing might be likened to the effect a person's agreement or disagreement to a single Bible verse has on her relationship with God. Ultimately, Omega 3's and a person's reaction to a scripture may be significant, but neither tell a story that could be described as anything other than limited. Spirituality can only be evaluated by examining a variety of different perspectives just as many things need to be considered when thinking about the diet's relationship to health and well-being.

I am glad to have read something that is critical of the importance of individual nutrients. I am also very excited to incorporate the idea's Pollan has about culture and spirituality into further reading about food and nutrition. Additionally, Pollan's description of the food industry makes me very curious to explore the contradictory motives of capitalism and providing America with a healthy diet.

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